كيفكم يا حلوات .... بما ان فجورة تدور على طواقي وبالباترون ... وبما ان عندي كثير منهم بدون باترون ومنهم بباترون مكتوب بالانجليزي .. حبيت انزل كم وحدة من اللي بالباترون ... واللي تحب تترجم او تسوي ورشة جزاها الله خير ... وانا اذا قدرت وامداني الوقت اسوي ورشة للي اقدر عليه ....
WIDTH=400 HEIGHT=350
This is not a beginner's pattern.
This pattern uses front post double and treble crochet (fpdc and fptr) as well as back post double crochet (bpdc) There are several high quality tutorials online of how to complete these stiches, as well as Youtube videos that will walk you through them. It is expected that you know these stitches and are comfortable with them before beginning the pattern.
Items Needed:
4 oz. of Worsted Weight yarn
H and J Hooks or hooks needed to obtain gauge!
Gauge: (With J hook) 4 fpdc across for 3 rows should measure 1" wide and high
Size: Two sizes: Smaller - Heads sized 18-22" (Larger - Heads sized 21-26" in parenthesis)
Cable next 2 fpdc (from row 4) explained below:
fpdc in second fpdc from hook (stitch "2"):
fpdc in skipped fpdc (stitch "1"):
The next row after a cable row is important too, if the stitches aren't crocheted in the right order they can become un-cabled. Below shows the order to crochet in the cabled stitches from round 4 (so this is how you should fpdc the next 2 fpdc in round 5):
There will be two stitches in the cable, one going under and one going over, fpdc first in the stitch that passes under the other (the one going from left to right):
Next fpdc in the stitch that passes over the other (the one going from right to left):
Cable next 4 fpdc (from row 7 and onwards) explained below:
fptr in third fpdc from hook (stitch "3"):
fptr in next fpdc (stitch "4"):
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fptr in next fpdc (stitch "2"):
The next row after a cable row is important too, if the stitches aren't crocheted in the right order they can become un-cabled. Below shows the order to crochet in the cabled stitches from round 7 and onward (so this is how you should fpdc the next 4 fpdc in round 8 and all other rounds after a cable round):
There will be four stitches in the cable, two going under and two going over, fpdc in the first stitch that passes under the other two (stitch "1"):
Next fpdc in the second stitch that passes under the other two (stitch "2"):
Next fpdc in the first stitch that passes over the other two (stitch "3"):
Lastly fpdc in the second stitch that passes over the other two (stitch "4"):
Note: Every round in the pattern (with the exception of the brim) starts with 2 fpdc, when joining this means you need to: slip, ch 2, then fpdc down into the fpdc you slipped to (overtop of the ch 2, ignore the ch 2 from now on, like it doesn't exist). So for example each round would start with slip, ch 2, fpdc down into previous fpdc you slipped in, then fpdc in next fpdc. You'd then continue each row as it's written
With J Hook
1. 14 (16) dc in Adjustable Ring
2. 2 fpdc in every dc: 28(32) stitches
3. *fpdc in next 2 fpdcs, dc in space between the 2nd fpdc and the next* around: 42(48) stitches
4. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in dc, cable next 2 fpdc (fpdc in second fpdc from hook, fpdc in skipped fpdc), bpdc in dc* around: 42(48) stitches
5. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc* around: 42(48) stitches
6. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, 2 fpdc in each of next 2 fpdc (4 fpdc total), bpdc in bpdc* around: 56(64) stitches
7. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, cable next 4 fpdc (fptr in 3rd fpdc from hook, fptr in 4th fpdc from hook, fptr in 1st skipped fpdc, fptr in 2nd skipped fpdc), bpdc in bpdc* around: 56(64) stitches
8. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, fpdc in next 4 fptr, bpdc in bpdc*, around: 56(64) stitches
9. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, dc in space between bpdc and next fpdc, fpdc in next 4 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, dc in space between bpdc and next fpdc* around: 70(80) stitches
10. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, bpdc in dc, cable over next 4 fpdc (fptr in 3rd fpdc from hook, fptr in 4th fpdc from hook, fptr in 1st skipped fpdc, fptr in 2nd skipped fpdc), bpdc in bpdc, bpdc in dc* around: 70(80) stitches
11. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdc, fpdc in next 4 fptr, bpdc in next 2 bpdc* around: 70(80) stitches
12. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdc, fpdc in next 4 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdc* around: 70(80) stitches
Repeat rounds 10-12 until 1" shorter than desired length
Switch to H Hook
Note: Every round in the brim starts with a bpdc, when joining this means you need to: slip and ch 2, this ch 2 counts as the first bpdc, then fpdc in the next stitch. You'd then continue the row as it's written.
1-5. bpdc, fpdc around: 70(80) stitches
Fasten off yarn and weave in ends.
ch 4 and join with sl st
Row 1: ch 2, 8 hdc in ring (counts as 9 hdc)
Row 2: hdc in every hdc and work a FPdc around each stitch as well. (the Post stitches are your increases.
Row 3 and every increase row hdc in every hdc and in the top of the FPdc. FPdc around FPdc. again the post stitches are your increases
Continue as for row three until you no longer want any increases.
Work evenly in hdc and FPdc stitches until you are ready to add in the white and work towards the brim. the first white rows are flat - they just provide a base for the upturned brim.
I worked the following colours and increased until row 7.
3 rows of Midnight navy.
3 rows of navy,
4 rows of royal blue,
6 rows of light blue
When you start with the white, work 2 rows of DC evenly
begin brim... work FPsc in 10, 2fpdc in next around hat and join. Fudge to make it work as you want. I just like a bit of extra room for the puffy brim portion.
add in an extra strand of white yarn and work evenly in hdc for 3 rows.
With whichever trim colour you would like work in a random pattern of sc and Long Sc around the brim
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