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ليمونة حلوة حامضة

ورشة بلوفر

الكروشيه والتريكو •

مرحبا

البلوفر الاصلي في المرفقات

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Start by crocheting a gauge swatch. It should measure 4 inches square.



If you're a crocheter who has never made a garment before, it's high time to try it! Personally, I shied away from garments for the longest time. But lately I've been getting deeper into more involved projects and I realized a secret: They are really not that hard! The pattern tells you exactly what to do! Notably, the hardest part is figuring out which size you wear, but that's another story.

So for the next five weeks, I'd like to invite you to join me in a Dare to Make It! Crochet-Along. We'll be making this Sweet Baby Hoodie, which is a free pattern from the lovely folks at Bernat. You have to register to see the pattern, but I've been a registered member for a few years and have yet to recieve any unwanted email, so it's well worth it. The baby sizing means that we can go through the basic elements of garment construction and finishing, without quite the time commitment and sizing issues of a larger garment. It's also inexpensive to make, and you will have a great gift for a new baby just in time for the holidays. I'm going to assume you have basic knowledge of crochet stitches—this pattern mainly uses half double crochet—but stop me if you have a question. Here's a link to some beginner basics.

I'll jump right in this week with a gauge swatch and the back of the hoodie. I hope you will join me, even if you can't start till next week or think you'll finish early, it's fun to share your progress, and I'm here to answer any questions you might have along the way.

Step 1: Pick Your Yarn
First thing's first—you'll need to pick your yarn. You can go with the Bernat yarns suggested in the pattern, but you can also substitute anything that falls into the same weight range (which is, in this case, CYCA 3, or worsted weight). I am using Red Heart "Designer Sport." You can use something inexpensive or luxurious, but when you're picking your yarn, just remember that baby clothing needs to be easy care—so get something washable. And of course, you can pick whichever color you like.

Step 2: Crochet a Gauge Swatch
No groaning—it's a good idea to make a gauge swatch. I used to shrug off the gauge swatch, but, especially if you're substituting yarns, it's an easy way to check if the yarn is going to work. Your other option is ending up dissatisfied after hours of work, so I think it's well worth it. To make the gauge swatch for this pattern, with a size 4.0 mm hook, ch 17, half double crochet (hdc) in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn, ch 2, hdc in each stitch across (do not count the turning chain as a stitch). Repeat for 8 more rows to get the correct size gauge swatch.

If your swatch is much bigger, go down a hook size or two. If your swatch is much smaller, go up a hook size or two. You'll need to make a new swatch with the new hook size to ensure it's correct. If you work several swatches and just can't get it to measure up, you may need to switch yarns.

Once you're certain you've got the right gauge, go through and mark up the pattern to make the crocheting easy. Choose a size (6 months, 12 months, etc.) and read through the pattern. Circle all of the numbers that correspond to your pattern size. For instance, I am making the 6-month-sized hoodie, so on Back/Foundation Row, I circled 39. Do this for any number reference in the pattern.

Step 3: Begin the Back
Referencing the pattern, chain the appropriate number for your size and repeat rows of half double crochet.




Half double crochet across each row until the piece measures the indicated length.

Remember, a half double crochet is: yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook.

When your piece measures the indicated length from the beginning (6-1/2 inches, in my case), proceed to the "Shape Armholes" instructions.

Step 4: Shape Armholes



Begin shaping the armholes by slip-stitching in the first 4 chains of the indicated row.

To make a slipstitch, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, then draw that loop through the yarn on your hook.

When you reach the fifth stitch of the row, ch 2 and hdc into the stitch. You will notice this creates a little stair-step on the piece. Later, the sleeves will be attached here



Continue to hdc across the row, leaving the last 4 stitches unworked.

The row you just completed was the shaping row—not so bad, was it? Turn the work, and continue making rows of hdc until the shaped section measures the indicated length from the beginning of the section (4-1/2 inches for my 6-month-sized sweater).



Double-check the measurements against the pattern.

Step 5: Fasten off

Finally, you'll need to fasten off so the piece won't unravel.



To fasten off, cut an 8-inch tail, then yarn over and pull the tail completely through the last loop on your hook.

يتبع لاحد يرد ,,,,
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ليمونة حلوة حامضة
ليمونة حلوة حامضة •
Next up on the Dare to Make It! Crochet-Along (using the free Sweet Baby Hoodie pattern) are the left and right front of the sweater. I'm going to start off by showing you the left front, then I'll discuss how to derive the right front from the instructions for the left front.

Step 1: Make the Left Front
Crochet the indicated number of chains and work even in dc until the piece measures the length that the pattern indicates (for me, 6-1/2 inches). You want to stop at the end of a wrong side row so that the right side will be facing for the shaping row. Turn the work and slipstitch through the first 4 stitches to shape the armhole— this inset area will be where you sew the sleeves later, and you can see it as the first stairstep in the photo below. Continue to work even as the pattern indicates until the piece armhole (the new, thinner section) measures as indicated. Note that since you need to end on a right-side row, your piece might be slightly longer or shorter than that measurement. Mine is slightly longer, but I compared it to the back piece just to make sure the future rows to work would still fit in the indicated number of rows. It's a judgement call on your part and, again, not a big deal.



Compare the left front to the back of the sweater to make sure you're on track, then begin the neck shaping.

The neck shaping for the left front starts out simply; just don't work the last 3 hdc of the row. I turned the above piece right after I snapped the photo, with the remaining 3 dc unworked.



To start the next row, chain 2, then make a half double crochet 2 together.

To make a half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog), insert your hook in the first stitch, yarn over, and draw up a loop. Insert your hook in the next stitch, yarn over, and draw up a loop. You should have something similar to the photo above. Next, yarn over and draw the loop through all three loops on your hook. (Note: The pattern describes a different way of making a hdc2tog; you can use either and your hoodie will turn out fine!)

Follow the instructions for the next few rows—you'll make a hdc2tog alternatingly at the beginning or end of a row, and you should see a little slope forming as you go.



Compare the left front to the back to make sure you have the same number of rows in each and that the parts fit together.

asten off the left front.

Step 2: Make the Right Front

Ultimately, you want to re-create the left front in reverse, so that the right front is a mirror image of the left front. To do this, you will just switch a few key stitches. Begin by working the pattern in hdc until it measures the indicated length. Remember to end at the end of a wrong-side row, then turn. When you are ready to proceed to Shape Armhole, instead of working slipstitches into the first 4 stitches, ch 2 and hdc in each stitch across until the last 4 stitches. Leave the last 4 stitches unworked and turn. This is going to give you an armhole on the left side of the work (when RS is facing you) as pointed to by my crochet hook in the below photo.




Continue to work even until the armhole measures the indicated length, remembering to end at the end of a wrong-side row. Turn the work to the right side

Now you are going to start the Neck Shaping. As you can see from the photo above, and hopefully from your piece, you are already in the area where the collar will be, so you will start the shaping at the beginning of the row for the right front (instead of at the end, as on the left front). Note that the Right Front is shown on the left above—this is because the terms "left" and "right" refer to the wearer's left and right (confusing, I know!). Follow this pattern for the next four rows of the Right Front:

1st row: Slipstitch in first 3 stitches, hdc in next hdc and each hdc across, turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in each st until last 2 stitches. Hdc2tog over last 2 stitches, turn.

Row 3: Ch 2, hdc2tog over first 2 stitches, hdc in each stitch across.

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

From here you can follow the pattern again—working even until the height of the front matches the back (in my case, I did not make any extra rows, but depending on your size, you may need to do so). When you are finished, fasten off the work.



Here are the two completed sweater fronts. As you can see, the hoodie is really starting to shape up!


Next week, we'll be making the sleeves, which are relatively simple, and then I'll show you how to add the sleeve border. Feel free to post any questions in the meantime!

يتببببببببببببببببع
ليمونة حلوة حامضة
ليمونة حلوة حامضة •
This week we'll be making two sleeves for the baby hoodie. You'll still be working mostly in half double crochet (hdc), and I will help you along with the shaping and the sleeve edgings. Sneak ahead to the end to see the finished edging samples before you edge your sleeves so you can see what the "Boy" and "Girl" versions look like (you don't have to stick to the specified gender if you prefer a different look). Refer to Week 1 and Week 2 if you're just joining along this week and need to catch up, and remember to post pics of your progress to the gallery at the end of this post when you have a chance. Also, feel free to ask me questions if you are stuck on part of the pattern.

Step 1: Work the Sleeve

To get started, refer to the Sweet Baby Hoodie pattern and chain the indicated number and work 3 rows of half double crochet as directed.




Make 2 half double crochet stitches in the first half double crochet. This is called an increase.

Begin the fourth row with 2 hdc in the first hdc. Your work should look like the photo above—from right to left, there's the 2 chain turning chain, then 2 hdc in the first hdc stitch. Continue by working 1 hdc in each hdc across until you reach the last hdc. Make 2 hdc in the last hdc, ch 2, and turn. Making 2 hdc in 1 hdc stitch is called an increase because you increase the number of stitches in the row. This is just another way of shaping.

Next, work 3 rows even (meaning, work 1 hdc in each hdc across for each row, ch 2, then turn). Repeat the last four rows (1 increase row and 3 even rows) the number of times the pattern indicates. You will notice that your sleeve begins to widen gradually—this is because of the addition of the increase rows. Once you work the indicated number of repeats, continue to work even until your sleeve measures the indicated length.



Place a marker at each side of the last row worked (left), then work 2 more rows of hdc and fasten off (right).

The markers indicate the top of the sleeve and will help you set the sleeve into the shoulder when you sew everything together.

Make a second sleeve the same way.

Step 2: Edge the Sleeves

Now I will show you how to edge the sleeves according to the pattern. Remember that you are free to add your own edging pattern if you prefer, and you can use any color you like to make the edging.

Note that both edgings are worked with the wrong side facing you. This is because in the finished hoodie, the sleeve cuff is turned up. If you don't want your sleeve turned up, you may want to work on the right side of the work (but be warned that the sleeves may be a little long since they were designed to be turned up).

Differentiating the wrong and right side of your work is easy if you haven't woven in the ends yet (score one for procrastinators!). Place your work so that the first row worked is at the bottom and the yarn tail from the foundation chain is at the lower left corner (the sleeves are placed this way in the stitch marker photo above). Unless the pattern indicates otherwise, when your work is oriented this way with beginning the yarn tail on the lower left corner of the work, the right side is facing you. Turn the work over and you will see the wrong side. I find the wording in the original pattern to be confusing, so just remember that if you're following exactly, have the sleeve's wrong side facing you and the narrow end at the top, then insert your hook in the top right corner of the work to begin the edging. Use a contrasting color if desired.

For both boys and girls, start off the edging by working one row of single crochet in the new color. I am omitting this step in the how-to because the how-to photos are clearer when the next row of the edging is worked in a contrasting color.

For the BOYS version of the sweater, instead of turning the work, you will work a row of reverse single crochet across the edge. The difference with a reverse single crochet is that you work it from left to right (everything else up to this point has been right to left). It can be a bit confusing at first, so here are some step outs.



To make the reverse single crochet, insert your hook in the next stitch to the right of your last stitch, yarn over, and draw up a loop.



To complete the reverse single crochet, yarn over and draw the loop through both of the loops on your hook. Continue along the edge this way and fasten off.

For the GIRLS version, after working your first row of sc, turn the work, ch 1, and start the pattern (see photo).



*Single crochet in the first single crochet, skip 2 single crochet, 5 double crochet in next single crochet, skip 2 single crochet. Repeat this pattern from * across and fasten off.

Working several double crochets into one stitch gives you a cute little scalloped edging.



Here are the finished sleeve edgings (again, yours will have a solid row of single crochet in the contrasting color before you add the border).

Repeat your chosen edging on the second sleeve and you're set! Next week we'll make the hood, and the following week we'll wrap up with the button band, seaming, and finishing. You are more than halfway there!

يتببببببببببع
+1
ليمونة حلوة حامضة
ليمونة حلوة حامضة •
Step 1: Make the hood.

Referring to the Sweet Baby Hoodie pattern, chain the indicated numbers of stitches and work 3 rows of half double crochet. Turn, ch 2, and start the next row with a decrease. The decrease is called a half double crochet 2 together—esentially it means you're combining two stitches into one (therefore decreasing the number of stitches in the row).



To make a half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog), (yarn over and insert the hook in the next stitch, yarn over, and draw up a loop) twice, then yarn over and pull the loop through all 3 loops on the hook.

Hdc in the rest of the stitches of the row until you get to the last 2. Make another hdc2tog over the last 2 stitches and turn. You'll repeat this decrease row (with a hdc2tog at the beginning and end of the row) several times until your stitch count matches the pattern. If you'd like to determine how many repeats you'll need before you get started, take the number of stitches in the foundation row for your size (75 for 6 months) and subtract the final number for your size (59 for 6 months) = 16 stitches. Divide that number by 2, which is the number of stitches you'll eliminate through decreases, and you'll get the number of decrease rows you need to work for your size. It will be 8 rows for the 6-month size.

After the decrease rows, work even as the pattern indicates, ending at the end of a wrong side row (so that the right side is facing for the next row). Do not chain 2 before turning.

Step 2: Shape the hood, beginning with the next row.




To begin shaping, slipstitch in the first 3 stitches of the next row. To make a slipstitch, insert the hook in the stitch, yarn over, and draw the loop through both the stitch and the loop on your hook.

After the third slipstitch, work one half double crochet across until you reach the last 3 stitches of the previous row. Turn and leave these stitches unworked. Repeat this row 5 more times, beginning each row with 3 slipstitches and ending 3 stitches before the end of the previous row. This will give you a pretty rapid decrease in the hood's width.



In subsequent rows, skip the last 3 stitches of each row, turn, and slipstitch through the first 3 stitches of the next row.

That's it! After you've completed a total of 6 decrease rows, fasten off.



Here's what the completed hood looks like when laid flat.

Next week we'll move on to finishing, which includes making a button band and sewing all of the pieces together. If you want to get a head start, weave in the ends and block your pieces now. Use a stitch marker or stray piece of yarn to mark the right side of each piece before you weave in the ends. For blocking, if you're working with natural fibers (cotton, wool) that can be steam blocked, refer to my blocking tutorial here. If you're working with acrylic/synthetic fibers, remember not to steam them. You can follow the same basic rules of pinning the pieces to size, then spritz them with a water bottle and let them dry overnight. Your pieces might be fine without any blocking, but if you have two sleeves or fronts that look slightly different in size, the blocking process will straighten them out.

يتبعععععععععععععع
ليمونة حلوة حامضة
ليمونة حلوة حامضة •
By now we've made all of the pieces and it's time to finish the hoodie. I'll give you fair warning—this was by far the most difficult part of making the hoodie as the intstructions got a little blurry. Hopefully the step-by-steps will save you some of the frustration.

For reference, here's the pattern we're using: Sweet Baby Hoodie. If you need to catch up, click over to: Week 1, Week 2, Week 3, and Week 4. Now, on to the finishing!

Step 1: Make the buttonhole and button bands.



Begin by single crocheting along the right-side edge of the right front (for girls) or the right side of the left edge (for boys). Skip ahead to the third photo to get a clearer view of what you're crocheting in this section.

I'm showing this in the green yarn so that it's easy to see. Note: You won't single-crochet up the entire edge; stop just before the neck decreases (the hood will be attached to that triangular part later). There's no perfect way to know where to place each single crochet, so just do your best. If something looks funny, pull out a few stitches and try again—practice makes perfect. Continue to follow the pattern for the second row and proceed to row 3, the buttonhole row. As described in the pattern, each buttonhole is made very simply—just chain 1 and skip the single crochet below.



After you make the first buttonhole, pass one of the buttons you intend to use through the hole to make sure it will be a good fit.

If your button is too small, you'll need to get a larger one (since this is the smallest buttonhole you can make). If you have oversize buttons, you might want to add one more chain and skip 1 more sc to make a larger buttonhole (repeat for all of the buttonholes, and subtract 1 single crochet beween hole repeats to make up for the extra space). Aren't these the easiest buttonholes ever?

Continue to follow the directions for the rest of the buttonhole and button bands. You'll work the button band the same way; just make a sc where you would have made a chain 1 in row 3.



Once you complete the buttonhole and button bands, your front pieces should look like this.

The vertical pink stitching is the part that was added for the button/buttonhole bands.

Step 2: Sew the seams.



To sew the shoulder seams, with the right sides of the front and back facing, whipstitch through both loops of both edges.

You'll just be sewing the short top edge of each shoulder for now. Leave the piece inside out for the rest of the seaming process. Next, sew up the back of the hood. Fold the hood in half, with the right sides facing, and sew from the fold until you reach the end of the back seam shaping (the last 6 rows of stair stepping).

Next, you'll need to attach the hood to the neckline. It looks a bit crazy all pinned up, but I think the photo below will sufficiently explain how to pin each side of the hood.



With all pieces wrong side out, align the hood and neckline. Pin them in place and sew them together with a whipstitch.

Again, it might not be as easy to know what stitches to thread your needle through since you won't have as clean of an edge, but you will get the hang of it. After you sew the hood, it's time to finish the rest of the seams.



With all pieces wrong side out, sew the arm and side seams. Start by sewing the shoulder to the arm (where the hook points in this photo), using the stitch markers as a guide to where each edge of the sleeve is placed.

Once you've sewn the shoulder to the arm, sew the side seam of the jacket. Finally, sew the sleeve seam, remembering to turn the sleeve inside out about 2 inches before you reach the edge. Continue sewing the seam on the outside of the sleeve.

Repeat the seaming for the other sleeve and side. You might want to weave in all of your ends at the end, instead of as you go, just in case you accidentally turn something right side out and sew it together. (Ahem, I speak from experience.) It's much harder to pull out a seam when you can't find the end to start ripping it out.

Step 3: Add the border and sew the buttons in place.
After all of the seams are sewn, turn the hoodie right side out. Edge the hoodie as it says in the pattern or as desired. On my hoodie, with the wrong side facing, I did 1 round of single crochet and in the next round (half double crochet, slipstitch) in each single crochet. That gave me the slightly subtler ruffle edge you see below. I also omitted the second round of edging for the majority of the button band (the one under the buttonhole band) since it won't be seen when buttoned and would just add bulk--but if you think yours will be worn unbuttoned, go ahead and add the edging.

Finally, sew the buttons to the button band so that they are placed directly in line with the buttonholes. Make several securing stitches, since small buttons can be a choking hazard for babies.







Step 4: Congratulations!
Now it's all ready for wrapping and giving, and we're still a good six weeks away from the holidays. Pat yourself on the back (and post your finished sweaters in the gallery!)—you deserve it.
+3
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