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  1. @frolay

    فرولاية
    انتى تأمرى يا حبيبتى هنزلهم لكى قربيا جدا انتظرينى...........
    شوفى كدة و قولى لى رأيك

    والباترون


    Measurements: approx. 18 x 150 cm [7" x 59"]

    Materials:
    Garnstudio ESKIMO
    150 gr nr 14, charcoal grey

    DROPS 12 mm needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

    Gauge: 7 sts in pattern = approx. 10 cm in width.

    Pattern:
    Row 1 (wrong side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), *K 1, yo, sl 1 as if to purl*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts, K 2.
    Row 2 (right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), *yo, sl 1 as if to purl, K tog the next st and yo from previous row*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts, yo, sl 1 as if to purl, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
    Row 3 (wrong side): K 1 (edge st), *K tog the next st and yo from previous row, yo, sl 1 as if to purl*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts + yo from previous row, K tog the next st and yo, K 1.
    Repeat rows 2 and 3 over all sts.

    Scarf: Loosely cast on 13 sts and knit pattern – see instructions above. Bind off when the piece measures approx 150 cm.


    الباترون
    SCARF:

    Measurements: approx. 18 x 150 cm [7" x 59"]
    Materials:ESKIMO
    150 gr nr 14 charcoal grey or nr 21 denim blue

    DROPS 12 mm needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

    Gauge: 7 sts in pattern st = approx 10 cm in width.
    Pattern:
    Row 1 (wrong side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), *K 1, yo, sl 1 as if to purl*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts, K 2.
    Row 2 (right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), *yo, sl 1 as if to purl, K tog the next st and yo from previous row*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts, yo, sl 1 as if to purl, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
    Row 3 (wrong side): K 1 (edge st), *K tog the next st and yo from previous row, yo, sl 1 as if to purl*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts + yo from previous row, K tog the next st and yo, K 1.
    Repeat rows 2 and 3 over all sts.

    1 Pr. No. 3 Steel Needles-12 inch

    1 Pr. No. 2 Steel Needles-12 inch

    2 Balls sport weight yarn

    With No. 3 Needles, cast on 100 sts. and work in K 1, P 1, ribbing, for 1 inch.

    Change to No. 2 Needles and working the first and last 8 sts. in ribbing the entire length of scarf, work the center 84 sts. in pattern as follows:

    Row 1-* K. 3, P. 3, repeat from * across Row.

    Row 2-K. 2, * P. 3, K. 3, repeat from * across Row ending, P. 3, K. 1.

    Row 3-P. 2, * K. 3, P. 3, repeat from * across Row ending, K. 3, P. 1.

    Row 4-* P. 3, K. 3, repeat from * across Row.

    Row 5-K. 1, * P. 3, K. 3, repeat from * across Row ending, P. 3, K. 2.

    Row 6-P. 1, * K. 3, P. 3, repeat from * across Row ending, K. 3, P. 2.

    These 6 rows form pattern of scarf. Repeat these 6 rows until work measures 39 inches, then change to No. 3 Needles and work in ribbing for 1 inch, bind off.

  2. بصراحه حلوين قوي ومش عارفه اشكرك ازاي علي تعبك معايا وردودك السريعه بس معلش ارخم عليك شوفيه ياريت الترجمه بتاعت اي باترون

  3. @frolay

    فرولاية
    شوفى كدة و قولى لى رأيك والباترون Measurements: approx. 18 x 150 cm [7" x 59"] Materials: Garnstudio ESKIMO 150 gr nr 14, charcoal grey DROPS 12 mm needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge. Gauge: 7 sts in pattern = approx. 1…

    الباترون للطاقية و الكوفية
    Additional Materials
    Size 13 (9.00 mm) 16-inch [40 cm] circular knitting needle or size to obtain gauge (hat)
    Size 13 (9.00 mm) double-pointed needles (hat)

    HAT

    BRIM
    With A, cast on 48 sts. Join and place marker for beginning of rnd.
    Rnds 1-4 With A, (k 3, p 3) around.
    Rnds 5-8 With B, (k 3, p 3) around.
    Repeat Rnds 1-8 until piece measures 6½ in from beginning. CROWN
    Notes Continue alternating 4 rows A, 4 rows B. Change to double-pointed needles when necessary.
    Rnd 1 (K2tog, k 1, p 3, k 3, p 3) 4 times – 44 sts.
    Rnds 2, 4, 6 and 8 Knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as they face you.
    Rnd 3 (K 2, p 3, k2tog, k 1, p 3) 4 times – 40 sts.
    Rnd 5 (K 2, p2tog, p 1, k 2, p3) 4 times – 36 sts.
    Rnd 7 (K 2, p 2, k 2, p2tog, p 1) 4 times – 32 sts.
    Rnd 9 (K2tog, p 2, k 2, p 2) 4 times – 28 sts.
    Rnd 10 (K 1, p 2, k2tog, p 2) 4 times – 24 sts.
    Rnd 11 (K 1, p2tog, k 1, p 2) 4 times – 20 sts.
    Rnd 12 (K 1, p 1, k 1, p2tog) 4 times – 16 sts.
    Rnd 13 (K2tog) 8 times – 8 sts. Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Thread tail into large-eyed, blunt needle and weave it through remaining stitches. Pull all stitches tightly together and then fasten securely and weave in ends.SCARF
    With A, cast on 17 sts.
    Row 1 Slip first st, k 3, p 3, k 3, p 3, k 4.
    Row 2 Slip first st, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as they face you.
    Rows 3-6 Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twice. Change to B and repeat Rows 1-6.Change back to A and repeat Rows 1-6. Continue in this manner, changing colors after every 6 rows, until piece measures approximately 66 in or desired length, ending with a 6-row repeat of A.Bind off loosely and weave in ends.FRINGECut 10 in strands of yarn, 18 of each color. Place 1 strand each of A and B together and fold in half. Use crochet hook to pull loop through first st, draw ends through loop, and snug loop up against fabric of Scarf. Continue in this way, placing fringe through every other stitch at top and bottom (short sides) of Scarf.


    ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
    k = knit
    k2tog = knit 2 together
    p = purl
    p2tog = purl 2 together
    rnd(s) = round(s)
    st(s) = stitch(es)
    tog = together


    الباترون
    SCARF

    With A, cast on 18 stitches. Work in garter stitch for 6 inches. Break off A.

    With B, work in garter stitch for 6 inches. Break off B.

    Continue alternating between Colors A and B until 15 stripes have been worked, ending with A. Bind off to match cast on. Weave in all ends.

  4. @frolay

    فرولاية
    الباترون للطاقية و الكوفية Additional Materials Size 13 (9.00 mm) 16-inch [40 cm] circular knitting needle or size to obtain gauge (hat) Size 13 (9.00 mm) double-pointed needles (hat) HAT BRIM With A, cast on 48 sts. Join and place mar…






    الباترون
    SIZE
    One

    FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
    Length: 63 inches
    Width: 6 inches


    MATERIALS

    Patons Classic Merino Wool [100% wool; 223 yd/205 m per 100g skein]; 1 skein each color
    #225 Dark Grey Mix
    #224 Grey Mix
    #212 Royal Purple

    1 set US #8/5mm needles


    GAUGE
    18 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

    PATTERN NOTES
    [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here]

    Pfb: Purl into front, then back of stitch. 1 st increased.

    As you are working the triangles and squares of the entrelac pattern, they will seem long and distorted. Don't worry! As you work further sections, the sections you have knit will assume their correct shapes.

    This pattern can easily be made wider by casting on a larger multiple of 10 sts. This will increase the number of triangles at the ends of the scarf, and the number of squares in the body of the scarf.


    DIRECTIONS
    IMPORTANT NOTE: Turn work at the end of each row throughout pattern, unless instructed otherwise.

    SECTION 1

    Base Triangles:
    Using MC, CO 20 sts.
    Row 1 : K2.

    Row 2 : Sl 1, p1.
    Row 3 : K3.
    Row 4 : Sl 1, p2.
    Row 5 : K4.
    Row 6 : Sl 1, p3.
    Row 7 : K5.
    Row 8 : Sl 1, p4.
    Row 9 : K6.
    Row 10 : Sl 1, p5.
    Row 11 : K7.
    Row 12 : Sl 1, p6.
    Row 13 : K8.
    Row 14 : Sl 1, p7.
    Row 15 : K9.
    Row 16 : Sl 1, p8.
    Row 17 : K12.
    Repeat Rows 2-16 once more.

    Next Row : K10. Break yarn.

    SECTION 2

    Left Edge Triangle:
    Row 1 : Using CC1, pfb, p2tog.
    Row 2 : K3.
    Row 3 : Pfb, p1, p2tog.
    Row 4 : K4.
    Row 5 : Pfb, p2, p2tog.
    Row 6 : K5.
    Row 7 : Pfb, p3, p2tog.
    Row 8 : K6.
    Row 9 : Pfb, p4, p2tog.
    Row 10 : K7.
    Row 11 : Pfb, p5, p2tog.
    Row 12 : K8.
    Row 13 : Pfb, p6, p2tog.
    Row 14 : K9.
    Row 15 : Pfb, p7, p2tog. Do not turn work. 10 sts on right needle.
    Note: Directions for Center Square and Right Edge Triangle will instruct you to pick up sts along the edge of a square. The first time you work Section 1, you will be picking these sts up along the edges of the Base Triangles.

    Center Square:
    Pick up and p 10 sts along edge of square adjacent to right needle. Slip last picked-up st to left needle, p2tog.

    Next Row : K10.
    Next Row : P9, p2tog.
    Repeat these 2 rows 8 times more. All sts have been worked; 20 sts on right needle. Do not turn work at end of last row.

    Right Edge Triangle:
    Pick up and p 9 sts along edge of square adjacent to right needle.
    Row 1 : K9.
    Row 2 : P7, p2tog.
    Row 3 : K8.
    Row 4 : P6, p2tog.
    Row 5 : K7.
    Row 6 : P5, p2tog.
    Row 7 : K6.
    Row 8 : P4, p2tog.
    Row 9 : K5.
    Row 10 : P3, p2tog.
    Row 11 : K4.
    Row 12 : P2, p2tog.
    Row 13 : K3.
    Row 14 : P1, p2tog.
    Row 15 : K2.
    Row 16 : P2tog. Break yarn..

    SECTION 3

    First Square:
    With RS facing and using MC, k1, pick up and k 9 sts along edge of Right Edge Triangle; k 1 st from left needle, and pass last picked-up st over this st.

    *Next Row : P10.
    Next Row : K9, ssk.
    Repeat these 2 rows 8 times more. 10 sts on right needle. Do not turn work at end of last row.*

    Second Square:
    Pick up and k 10 sts along edge of Center Square; k 1 st from left needle, and pass last picked-up st over this st.
    Work from * to * as for First Square. Break yarn.

    Repeat Section 2 and Section 3 until work measures 63 inches, ending with Section 2.

    Purple squares and triangles are added randomly. When you want to knit a purple piece, break yarn before picking up sts for next square or triangle. Join CC2 and work square or triangle. Break CC2 and join appropriate yarn before picking up sts for next square or triangle.

    SECTION 4

    End Triangle:
    With RS facing and using MC, k1, pick up and k 9 sts along edge of Right Edge Triangle; k 1 st from left needle, and pass last picked-up st over this st.

    Row 1 : P10.
    Row 2 : K2tog, k7, ssk.
    Row 3 : P9.
    Row 4 : K2tog, k6, ssk.
    Row 5 : P8.
    Row 6 : K2tog, k5, ssk.
    Row 7 : P7.
    Row 8 : K2tog, k4, ssk.
    Row 9 : P6.
    Row 10 : K2tog, k3, ssk.
    Row 11 : P5.
    Row 12 : K2tog, k2, ssk.
    Row 13 : P4.
    Row 14 : K2tog, k1, ssk.
    Row 15 : P3.
    Row 16 : K2tog, ssk.
    Row 17 : P2.
    Row 18 : Ssk.

    Work a second triangle in the same way.

    Break yarn and draw through rem st.


    FINISHING
    Weave in yarn ends

  5. @frolay

    فرولاية
    الباترون SIZE One FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Length: 63 inches Width: 6 inches MATERIALS Patons Classic Merino Wool [100% wool; 223 yd/205 m per 100g skein]; 1 skein each color #225 Dark Grey Mix #224 Grey Mix #212 Royal …

    الباترون
    SIZE
    One

    FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
    Length: 64 inches
    Width: 5 inches


    MATERIALS

    Robin Double Knit [100% acrylic; 328/300 per 100g skein]; color: Yellow; 1 skein
    Patons Diploma Gold DK [55% wool, 25% acrylic, 20% nylon; 131 yd/120m per 50g skein] color: Black; 2 skeins

    1 set US #3/3.25mm needles
    Tapestry needle


    GAUGE
    25 sts/ 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch


    PATTERN NOTES
    [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

    This scarf is worked in double knitting. This is a technique which allows you to form two layers of fabric at once. It can be used in different ways, but in this case, it is used to make a reversible scarf with a stockinette surface on each side. One side will be predominantly yellow, and the other side will be predominantly black.

    When working a two-color pattern in double knitting, it is helpful to think of one side of the fabric as the 'Right Side', even though both sides of the piece will look equally good. Each stitch in the color pattern is really made up of 2 stitches: one stitch on the 'Right Side', in the pattern color, and one stitch on the 'Wrong Side', in the other color. The pattern will explain how to do this, in more detail.

    I have included a chart, but it is worth knowing the logic behind the pattern, because you can write your own, or even work without a chart. In essence, it is a form of decomposing check; how it goes through this decomposition is up to you. You start from nothing, adding first one odd square, then another, then another, until you've achieved a checkered pattern. You can decide whether you want to add or lose squares as you go along, depending on how you feel.

    It is easy to end up with a loose fabric when working in double knitting; be sure to knit with a firm tension.


    DIRECTIONS
    Note: To make this pattern easier to understand, the predominantly yellow (MC) side will be called the RS, and the predominantly black (CC) side will be called the WS.
    CO 48 stitches using CC. I recommend using a cable cast on, but a tubular cast on is also nice for double knitting.

    Now it's time to add the second color, and work the first row. You will have to get used to holding both yarns at once. Throughout, you carry both colors forward or back between the needles before each stitch, though you are only knitting or purling with one color at a time.

    The first row is worked entirely in MC on the RS, and CC on the WS. Knit the first stitch using MC. Bring both yarns between the needles to the front of the work. Purl the next stitch using CC, then bring both yarns between the needles to the back of the work. Knit the next stitch in MC. Continue working in this way to the end of the row.

    You should have what looks like the first row of 1x1 rib, but with the purled stitches in a different color from the knitted ones. If you are using black and yellow too, it'll look pleasingly like a bee.

    Turn the work, so the WS is facing. The last stitch of the previous row was worked using CC, so the first stitch of this row will also be worked using CC.
    Bring the strand of CC up underneath the strand of MC, effectively twisting the strands around each other, and knit the first stitch using CC. Bring both strands of yarn between the needles to the front of the work and purl the next stitch using MC. Bring both strands of yarn between the needles to the back of the work and knit the next stitch using CC. Continue working in this way to the end of the row.

    You have just worked 2 rows in double-knit stockinette stitch, with one side (RS) worked in MC, and one side (WS) in CC. Work 12 more rows in this way. Remember always to wrap the yarn for the first stitch of each row, around the other yarn, before working the first stitch.

    Begin Chart Pattern:
    When working from this chart, the odd-numbered rows will be RS rows, and the even-numbered rows will be WS rows. The MC (white) squares indicate that a MC stitch is worked on the RS, and a CC stitch is worked on the WS. CC (black) squares indicate that a CC stitch is worked on the RS, and a MC stitch is worked on the WS.

    This means, for example, that if you are working a WS row, and you see a MC square, you would knit that stitch using CC, and purl it using MC, so that the stitch would be a MC stitch on the RS.

    Work through all rows of the chart, then repeat rows 97-102 until the scarf is the desired length. Most of the scarf will be checkered, though you can always throw in the odd 'missing' patch if you feel if looks right. It breaks things up if you get bored and, as Uslan often says, consistency is overrated.

    BO all sts using CC.


    FINISHING
    Weave in the ends. You will find it easier to weave into matching colors if you weave diagonally. You should be able to tuck the very end of the yarn neatly between the two layers of knitting.

    The edges of double knitting can look a little unruly; you might want to neaten it up with a bit of spare yarn and a tapestry needle, or you can work a row of single crochet around the edges.

    Lay scarf flat and press lightly

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