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Straight sirloin with the open loops
In the preceding case sirloin square framed by dual thread. If for some reason or other external frame is not necessary, make by sirloin with the open loops. In this case work more conveniently to begin from the middle (figure 3.13).



Figure 3.13. Sirloin square with the open loops
They bind an average number as many loops, as is required along the diagonal of square.
All subsequent numbers diminish one loop.
Order of the reduction: in the beginning of a number they pass one loop and knot the secondly makes. The last loop of a number leaves free.
Straight sirloin with the closed and open loops
If tallies sirloin for the embroidry, then first vyvyazyvayutsya loops on zone width. In the subsequent numbers along one side it is necessary to diminish loop, connecting 2 loops by one knot - in this case it will come out by sirloin with the closed loops (figure 3.14). It is possible to diminish loop, passing last loop - in this case it will come out by sirloin with the open loops (figure 3.15). Along other side, on the contrary, add the loops, making two knots into the last hole of each number. So that the grid would come out flat, it is necessary to follow the fact so that the quantity of loops would remain identical.


Figure 3.14. Straight sirloin by strip, that is concluded with the closed loops



Figure 3.15. Straight sirloin by strip, that is concluded with the open loops
Sirloin strip with the teeth
Binding begins from two loops, gradually adding loop to zone width. Then along the left side they add along one loop, and one loop of that not connected leaves on the right, or two loops connect by one knot. Four rows provyazyvayut, without changing a quantity of loops. Then they diminish 4 rows on one loop without the addition. Then they add 4 rows, without diminishing. And so on, obtaining, thus, toothed edge (figure 3.16).



igure 3.16. Straight sirloin by teeth with the open loops
Sirloin framework
Sirloin framework
Framing from the sirloin grid can wonderfully decorate and isolate any figure or embroidry on the cloth. This framework can serve as the independent decorating motive, even if we leave aperture empty. Window inside the framework can be filled with lace seams in the needle technology.
Upper right angle. The sirloin framework begins to bind from the angle as usual straight sirloin with the closed loops, in our figure 3.17 this upper right angle.



Figure 3.17. Diagram of the binding of the sirloin framework
After reaching to 6 loops, provyazyvayut only 3 loops, which follow 3 loops leave. They further bind right vertical side.
Right side. The work is turned over for this and provyazyvayut 4 loops, adding 1 loop at the end of the number. Work is turned over and make 3 loops, diminishing one loop at the end of the number. They again turn work and provyazyvayut 4 loops. So they repeat until the overall length of the framework comes out along the right side. Moving from the edge to the middle, provyazyvayut 3 loops, last loop, as usual, they diminish, and one loop is added into the same cell. This there will be the lower angle of the framework. Further they bind the lower side of the framework to the interior angle analogously. They break thread and tie it to the extreme of four that left in the beginning of the work of the loops of right upper corner.
Upper side. Now they bind the upper side of square analogously with right side. First provyazyvayut 3 left loops, they turn work and provyazyvayut 4 loops, adding 1 loop at the end of the number. Work again is turned over and provyazyvayut 3 loops, diminishing 1 at the end of the number. So they continue until the width of the framework on the external edge comes out along the upper side. Then, moving from the edge to to center, they diminish one loop and they add into the same cell. The left upper angle of the framework so is obtained.
Left side. Now tyuey provyazyvayut the left side of the framework in such a way that as other sides, up to the internal corner. They break and tie thread to the outer side of the framework. Corner now for us is in prospect to combine two ends of the work and to finish tying.
Lower left angle. They get down the first loop, provyazyvayut the loops of the left side of square, and then by the same thread - loop of lower side, diminishing last loop. Corner tyuey dovyazyvayut along the diagonal as usual straight sirloin, diminishing in the beginning and at the end of each number on one loop. Last 2 loops get down.
Knowing operational procedure, it is possible to connect the framework of any sizes.


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3.2. EMBROIDRY ON THE SIRLOIN
However we varied the form of grid, nevertheless is obtained simple "utility bag" - not so already elegant a needelwork. The need for further adornment is obvious. By the favorite occupation u I will give on the boundary of the nineteenth and the twentieth it was age-long embroidry on the sirloin. In its those times were called "Richelieu's sirloin", or "peck guipure". The embroidered sirloin in appearance sometimes resembles strochevye works - embroidry on the jerked through threads, but its production is less labor-consuming.
Tools and equipment. For the embroidry on the sirloin is required the same as for the usual embroidry: tambours, thread, scissors, needle.
Tambours for the sirloin embroidry to more conveniently use rectangular or square. If for the simple embroidry they prefer to use small tambours, then for the sirloin embroidry to more conveniently take tambours a little more. If there is no tambour of the suitable form and sizes, it is possible to use any framework - metallic, or wooden, for example the framework for the picture. They attach sirloin grid to the framework, passing through the cells cord or braid. If grid is less than the framework, then the strips of cloth sew to it on the edges. For the sirloin embroidry usually use stationarily fastened tambours.
Special feature. Both hands work with the sirloin embroidry. Right hand pokes needle from the face side, and leftist assumes it from the reverse side of grid. Therefore tambours or the framework should be strengthened on the legs in the vertical position taking into account the fact that the left hand must be located from the reverse side of work. If the framework is established in the table, then from the lower side of the framework must be free space not less than 15 cm.
Needles use sufficiently long and thin, as always with the embroidry - with the blunted end and the large ear. They dull the point of needle so that it would not split the embroidering thread.
Threads will be required different invoice. For the lace and linen seams use twisted cotton or flaxen threads, while for the darning seam and the outlines - soft embroidering, for example iris or worsted.
Scissors will be required small with the sharp extensions, will approach manicure.
Embroidering seams
But now let us examine the forms of seams for the embroidry on the sirloin. Some of them has already been encountered to us in the division "lace by needle".
Darning seam
Simplest and most rapid method to obtain figure on the sirloin grid - to fill separate cells with darning seam. This seam is sometimes called "flooring". It uses in such a case, when it is necessary to fill the substantial part of the grid - with the embroidry of curtains, covers, tablecloths. In this case it is possible to use any figure for the embroidry by small cross, by considering sirloin grid as canvas. By one stitch overlap immediately several cells of sirloin, passing needle first under the partition, then above it (figure 3.18). The following number of flooring goes around partitions from other side.



Figure 3.18. Simple darning seam (flooring)

Darning seam with the winding
The threads of the flooring, executed thus, are not separated, and seam itself is more durable.
If it is necessary to fill one sirloin cell, they attach thread in the left upper angle of cell and carry out under the opposite vertical partition. Then thread returns to the left partition, describing eight. Entire cell is tightly filled up with such eights (figure 3.19). Then the cell following according to figure is filled up.


Figure 3.19. Seam "flooring" with the winding in one cell: A) fulfillment b) seam in the finished form
When it is necessary to fill several cells, situated by a number, thread they attach in the left upper angle and carry out to the outer right partition of a number just as in the simple darning seam. Then thread is carried out to the left outer partition, winding along the way all vertical partitions. Threads in this case will be interwoven, forming eights in each cell (figure 3.20). They wind left outer partition and again direct thread to the right.


Figure 3.20. Darning seam with the winding in one cell: A) fulfillment b) seam in the finished form
The embroidry by darning seam on the sirloin background is considered as the simple sirloin embroidry. In this case the figure is located strictly along the cells of the grid of sirloin. It is possible to use threads of both one and several it is color for this form of embroidry. Embroidry on the sirloin with the use of different lace seams is called sirloin- guipure. In this case the grid of sirloin is not independent unit, but only support for putting different seams.
Background seams
Let us first examine seams for the filling of large areas. They call them background seams.
Linen seam
This seam especially frequently is encountered in the ancient sirloin works. It imitates linen interlacing. Thread they attach in the angle of sirloin cell and stretch through the cell of sirloin as the thread of basis, across the cell stretch seemingly additional partitions. If figure seizes several adjacent cells, "basis" stretches to entire number of cells. The partitions of grid in this case first catch by needle, then they pass. Across the obtained "basis" they lay darning seam, seizing the threads of "basis" through one. The threads of "basis" cannot be stretched too tightly; therefore to the last cell of linen figure they place knitting needle, and "basis" they stretch through it. Then they remove knitting needle and linen stitches to other side make. From the cells, filled with linen seam, it is possible to compose patterns (figure 3.21). Linen seam looks more tenderly than darning, and it requires thinner threads.


Figure 3.21. Linen seam, framed by obmetochnym loop seam or seam into the winding
"pautinka"
The seam of "pautinka" with different modifications is used more frequent than others. This seam consists of air loops. Air loops can be had available both the numbers and along the circle.
First row of cells, upper part. Work is carried out from left to right. They fasten working thread to the middle of the vertical partition of the cell of sirloin and is looped, seizing horizontal partition in the middle. Loop is done only from right to left. Needle in this case they direct from top to bottom under the sirloin thread and above the working thread (figure 3.22). Thread they do not involve, but they leave to viset' freely. Thread must overhang to the middle of vertical partition. Then thread they conduct under the vertical partition to the middle of the horizontal partition of adjacent to the right cell. They continue to carry out loop stitches. Loop first remains before the vertical partition, then it goes for it.


Figure 3.22. "pautinka", the 1st and 2-1 rows
The lower part of the first row they conduct according to the lower partitions of the same cells thus. In this case the freely hanging loops are attached.
For the passage to a lower number of cells they wind the left vertical partition of the first cell. Carrying out loop stitches, needle is introduced into the eyelets of an upper number. Is obtained pattern by ringlets, similar to the tulle interlacing (figure 3.23); therefore "pautinku" is sometimes called tulle seam.


Figure 3.23. "pautinka", the finished seam
"pautinka" in the circle
Working thread is attached for the middle of vertical partition.
First circle. Eyelet makes, seizing the middle of the horizontal partition of the same cell. The second eyelet for the middle of the horizontal partition of adjacent cell makes to the right. Then eyelet makes, seizing the vertical partition of the same cell. The following eyelet makes for the vertical partition of upper cell. Four adjacent cells (figure 3.24) so go around by loop seam
Second circle. From the middle of the horizontal partition of the fourth in the circle cell thread they pass into the suspended loops of the first circle and under the partitions of cells, forming ringlet. They attach ringlet for the horizontal partition and direct working thread at the beginning of work. As a result the obtained figure is not differed from "pautinki" in terms of numbers.



Figure 3.24. Filling of four cells with the air- loop seam: a,b) the stages of the fulfillment
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Air- loop "kidskin"
This seam (figure 3.25) can be considered the modification of the seam of "pautinka".
They attach thread in the lower left angle of cell and carry out to the middle of lower partition. At this point they wind partition by working thread and direct thread to the middle of right partition. Thread is carried out under the right partition from top to bottom so that the small loop would be formed. Then thread they direct to the middle of the lower partition of cell to the right to the middle of the upper partition of cell to the left above the vertical partition. Further they lay thread by zigzags to the upper point of background. Is obtained the stretched thread in the form of seam "kidskin". Small eyelets are formed on the upper and lower partitions. After filling entire background in one direction, they lay "kidskin" in the opposite direction (in figure 3.25 - dark thread). The rhombs are formed with the intersection of two seams.


Figure 3.25. Air- loop seam "kidskin": a,b) the stages of the fulfillment
Wavy seam
They run thread from the angle through two cells on the vertical line under the sirloin knot, to the second row they pass by the winding of vertical partition (figure 3.26).

Figure 3.26. Background by the wavy seam
Wavy seam can be carried out not through two, but through one cell. Waves can be located more frequent or thinner (figure 3.27).


Figure 3.27. Decorative background in the form of the wave
If we on the laid seam crisscross put the second wave, closely spaced lattice will come out by rhombs (figure 3.28).


Figure 3.28. Decorative background in the form of two crisscross lying waves
Seam "dual pautinka"
Needle they from left to right and from top to bottom pass above the lower sirloin partition, and then upward under the sirloin knot and so forth (figure 3.29).



Figure 3.29. Background by dual "pautinkami"
"interlaced pautinka"
Spectacular, but very complex figure. They first carry out the seam of "pautinka", and then above this figure lay inclined threads into both sides. The threads, which go from right to left, carry out above "pautinki" under the sirloin knots, and the threads, which go from left to right, under "pautinku" and above the sirloin it is main. Slanting threads must be stretched exactly and tightly. The figure of this background is not very visual, and we do not give it. This is dense reticulated background along the diagonal.
Background by the horizontal strips
This seam partially duplicates the horizontal partitions of cells. In four cells make the small crosses, and they pass 2 cells, carrying out thread along the sirloin partition. One row is carried out in two stages, in the direction first from left to right, then from right to left (figure 3.30).

Figure 3.30. Background by the horizontal strips
Background by the double seam
One row is filled with small crosses, three rows leave empty, and so to the end. Then they take long needle and lay slanting stitches from bottom to top and from right to left the hearth of 2 partitions of the third upper cell (counting from bottom to top from the row of small crosses). Then from top to bottom and from right to left under the first after small crosses cell. Then they pass needle from right to left through 3 cells (figure 3.31).


igure 3.31. Background by the double seam
Lattice background
Working thread carry out backwards and forward hearth 2 vertical partitions above 3 horizontal. So they cover entire background. Then working thread they pass from right to left under those partitions, on which cross the threads of the first row. After this, thread they direct naiskosok through 5 cells so that would come out long polukrestik. In the following number this polukrestik overlaps by the same long stitch (figure 3.32).


Figure 3.32. Background by the lattice
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Background by the Russian seam
To more conveniently begin work on top (figure 3.33).


Figure 3.33. Background by the Russian seam
The first row thread pass from left to right hearth one sirloin small filament, then naiskosok through 4 cells and they seize from left to right 1 vertical sirloin small filament. Then they again rise to 4 cells upward from left to right under the second vertical sirloin partition, to again rise upward and to cover 4 cells of sirloin and so forth to the end of the number.
The second row the beginning of the first stitch is fallen to the middle of the stitch of the first row. It is carried out as the first row.
Frequently the background seams are constructed on the combination of two seams, executed by the threads of different thickness. Many of these seams very ancient, reached us from the times antiquities. Usually these are the darning seam, carried out by thicker threads, and one of the open seams.
Background from the small squares by darning seam and "pautinki"
Small squares of four cells are filled with darning seam by thick thread. Small squares of four cells between them are filled with the seam of "pautinka" by thin threads (figure 3.34).



Figure 3.34. Background from the small squares by darning seam and "pautinki"
Background from the small squares by darning seam with the winding
Cells in checkerboard formation are filled with darning seam. Then through the free cells of naiskosok they stretch threads and wind them (figure 3.35).


Figure 3.35. Background from the small squares by darning seam with the winding
Background from the small squares and the large "small wheels"
Small squares of 9 cells are filled with darning seam. In the free squares of 9 cells are carried out the "small wheels" (figure 3.36) (in more detail about the "little wheels" let us have a talk only below).



Figure 3.36. Background from the small squares by darning seam and the large "small wheels"
Background by darning seam with the small "little wheels"
The cells of sirloin are filled with darning seam, then along the diagonal threads in two directions stretch and wind them, carrying out spider collars at the point of intersections (figure 3.37).



Figure 3.37. Background from the small squares by darning seam and the small "small wheels"
Background by the rhombs
Working thread they fasten to the sirloin knot and encircle 3 times around 4 sirloin it is main (figure 3.38). Rhombs are carried out consecutively from left to right, then downward and from right to left. From one rhomb to another they pass by the winding of the lower horizontal partition of sirloin grid. The following rhomb is carried out after this. By chain from the inosculating rhombs it is possible to separate one part of the figure of another. The interlacing of rhombs can form different patterns (figures 3.39, 3.40, 3.41). This idea can be developed infinitely, carrying out, for example, the interlacing of triangles (figure 3.42) or circles.



Figure 3.38. Chain from the dual rhombs



Figure 3.39. Chain from the rhombs in three rows of the cells



Figure 3.40. Chain from the rhombs in four rows of the cells



Figure 3.41. Kinks from the rhombs


Figure 3.42. Chain from polurombikov
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Background from the rhombs and "pautinki"
This figure occupies three rows of thirteen cells (figure 3.43). Thread is attached in the lower angle of future rhomb. Rhomb of three revolutions of thread makes. After returning to the initial position, they wind the middle of lower partition, makes stitch "kidskin" downward and upward and is stretched thread to the base of the second rhomb. After carrying out the second rhomb into three revolutions, with the same way they return to the left eyelet of "kidskin". They make loop stitch for the middle of the underlying partition of adjacent cell and direct the thread upward of naiskosok to the left apex of the third rhomb. After carrying out the third rhomb into three revolutions, the loop stitches between the second and third rhombs make. Further filling of background is produced in the sequence, given in the figure 3.4б- d.



Figure 3.43. Filling of large background with rhombs and by air- loop seam "kidskin"
Linen seam with the encircling by the darning seam
Four cells of sirloin are filled with linen seam, and then in order to round off figure, angular sirloin knots wind by the darning seam (figure 3.44). It is possible to wind each knot individually (figure 3.4в), or on 2 together (figure 3.44b).




Figure 3.44. Linen seam with the encircling by the darning seam
Carved seam in the sirloin- guipure
It is possible to separate not entire cell of sirloin, but only its outline (figure 3.45). This seam can serve as the excellent edging of entire article. On the outline they lay thick thread, and then they process by its loop seam or scalloped seam. For adorning the seam it is possible to use the pico- (see "lace by needle"). If we lay this seam on the outline of figure, then it will so strengthen entire pattern that it will be possible to cut from it grid. Thus, the kinks of complex configuration it is possible not to weave, but it is simple to cut out.



Figure 3.45. Carved seam: a,b) the stages of the fulfillment
The very popular decorating elements are all possible kinks and the "small wheels", carried out by different lace seams.
Kinks by the darning seam
It is possible to embroider different figures by darning seam. Simplest - triangle (figure 3.46). Working thread is attached in the left lower angle of cell. Stitch makes upward, seizing horizontal partition in the middle, and then - to the opposite angle, seizing sirloin knot, and they return to the middle of partition. Across the stretched threads, beginning from the upper angle, lay the stitches by darning seam.




Figure 3.46. Kinks by the darning seam
Kinks by the loop seam
As in the preceding case, they stretch triangle (figure 3.47). For each of the stretched sides they make several loop stitches, and then make through both sides together loop stitches.




Figure 3.47. Kinks by the loop seam
Kinks by the veins
On the middle of cell by two stitches (vverkh-vniz) they stretch the vertical thread (figure 3.48). Then inclined stitches into both sides lay through the stretched thread and the lower horizontal side of cell. In this case needle they pass from left to right under the stretched thread and from top to bottom under the sirloin thread. After this, the needle is carried out from right to left above the stretched thread and under the sirloin thread. Working thread must be pulled so that the stitches would be stretched equally. Stitches, as with the embroidry by smoothness, must lie down by a number with each other, completely covering the surface of triangle inside the cell.



Figure 3.48. Kinks by the veins
Kinks by the Venetian seam
The first row with loop seam they cover the lower side of the cell of sirloin (figure 3.49).
The second and subsequent rows moving in the opposite direction, above the first row the second row of loop stitches makes, decreasing a quantity of stitches by 1.
A last number the point of kink they fasten to the middle of the upper thread of cell.



Figure 3.49. Kinks by the Venetian seam

Circles by darning seam ("spider collars")
This figure occupies 4 adjacent squares (2 on the vertical line to 2 along horizontal) (figure 3.50). They fasten thread in the middle of the outlined square of four cells. The diagonals into both sides stretch through the middle, seizing sirloin knots. Along the way from the sirloin knot to the middle they wind thread. Then from the middle of square they begin to wind "little wheel" with darning seam. In this case needle they pass under the sirloin threads and above the stretched diagonals. Such circles are called still "spider collars" or "little wheels".



Figure 3.50. Circles by the darning seam: A) the imposition of the first threads for forming the circle and the beginning of circle b) the circles, completed by the simple and interlaced darning seam
Interlaced darning seam
In order to perform "little wheel" by the interlaced darning seam, 3 threads to the apexes of square stretch from the center, to the fourth only 1 thread is stretched. Then they wind "little wheel", after which thread they carry out under the "little wheel" and wind the fourth thread (figure 3.50b).
"shoeing"
Figurine into three fourths of circle is called "shoeing" (figure 3.51). Thread is wound in opposite directions: one turn clockwise, another - against.


Figure 3.51. Angles by darning seam ("shoeing")